Block Printing – The Story continues…

As discussed in the previous blog, Block Printing was revived from 1960 onwards by dedicated individuals like Shrimati Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay. Shri Brij Bhasin also played a significant role in uplifting this craft on Gujarat. At a local level, few artisans like Shri Ismail Khatri of Ajrakhpur showcased exemplary leadership in setting up the town of Ajrakhpur after the devastating 2001 earthquake.

Block Printing in Ancient Times:

In ancient times, block printing textiles were initially made as veil clothes, shoulder clothes, odhna, lungis of local dress. But with changing times, the karigars too adapted to the urban market. Dupattas, sarees, stoles were designed and printed using a blend of traditional techniques with modern motifs.

(Read about why we must support the Handloom industry.) 

How Block Printing Caught Momentum:

To encourage the artisans to innovate and continue with their craft, the national awards scheme was introduced in 1965 by the Govt. of India. Various fashion houses also played an essential role in providing regular work for artisans, thus transforming their art-form into a viable livelihood for different block printing clusters across India. No art-form can survive unless there is a ready market for it. Taking this into consideration, a system of exhibition cum sale was introduced to showcase the products to a broader audience. (Read about Handloom – A Timeless Tradition)

Block Printing Clusters in India:

Block Printing clusters are scattered all over India. These clusters catered to the local communities residing in those areas, where the fabric printed was sold or bartered at the local weekly markets.

In the Southern Peninsula in Andhra Pradesh, Machilipatnam, Srikalahasti, Pedana are known for Kalamkari prints. The Machilipatnam Kalamkari is block printed whereas the Srikalahasti Kalamkari is hand drawn.

In the Western part of India, in Gujarat, Ahmedabad, Deesa, Ajrakhpur, Mundra, Dhamadka are the significant block printing clusters. Mata ni Pachedi and Mata no Chandarvo, a type of Kalamkari, is practiced in Ahmedabad. The Deesa print textiles were mainly for various communities living in the border region of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

The Central state of India, Madhya Pradesh, is famous for Bagh prints, which derives its name from Baghini river. But the main centres of direct and resist printing in the state were Jawad, Tarapur, Ummedpura. Nandana prints, famous for its unique motifs are from these printing clusters.

When we discuss block prints, Rajasthan is the first state that comes to our mind. With Jaipur prints gaining popularity in the domestic as well as international market, its name is synonymous with fashion and soft furnishings that feature block prints. Block printing clusters like Bagru, Sanganer, Balstra, Barmer are equally well known for its dabu mud resist and Syahi begar.

The Block Printing clusters mentioned here are just a tip of an iceberg. Numerous such printing clusters are scattered all over India, indicating that the variety of Block Prints still made here are considerable. The survival of this craft is threatened by numerous environmental issues, primary being scarcity of water and lack of human resources.

Buy Block printed – Kasavu saree & Maheshwari saree online

Written by Smt. Avanti Gadgil – a passionate block printer